Thursday, 29 January 2009

Day 14 through Norachott, Mauritania


Set off from dunes with sad green stationwagon and headed back to the road. Said goodbye to our guide at the fuel station where we discovered again that dollars are useless and we needed euros, iball is now skint!Convoy separated and glenn stayed with steve and they ended up towing using the red discovery all the 230km to Norachott, through various police checkpoints.
We found the recommended hostel on entering the city and established contact with the French proprietor who duely arranged for his friendly mechanic to come to help. Lovely place but less lovely moods amongst the team… Arranged to fix the car and got our mali visas before moving on out at about 3.45. caroline did her washing with a local girl (toddler) and was later found feeding her a kinder egg.
Stopped in the dunes again overnight about 7pm. Team getting very efficient in places! Chilli for supper! Little apprehensive about the border out tomorrow.

Day 14: Into Mauritania





Awoke this morning beside the frontier but the policeman we had spoken to was nowhere to be seen so we breakfasted and then felt bad and joined the end of the queue that had developed whilst we ate and packed away. At about 9.10 he saw us and waved us through the queue as a unit and we began the waiting game! Hand in passports and whilst they telex all our details to ‘HQ’ we wait. Collect in the vehicle documents, queue and the give little presents to all!! Next on to the border guards, all the car drivers had to and meet a man under a tree in the shade behind a wall to fill in details yet again….. And at last we were off into no man’s land off road in the sand, the boys were happy but no sooner had we radioed to ask Glen and James if drivers were unsure.. they got stuck in the sand! Fighting off guides on all fronts we drove on through and even did a good turn by towing out a car that had clearly rolled. Less difficult at the Mauritania border but more ‘helpers’ which got quite stressful. We managed the frontier formalities and visas and car insurance but the day was largely gone! We set off only to be stopped by very aggressive police controls and we got just a little exasperated.
Finally got a few miles under our belts and headed for a well known nature reserve at speed. Got local directions and finally found our way. Again sorted the entry fees to the park and was adopted by a lovely local a guide included in the price of camping. Great fun was had by all off road driving in the sand but sadly Steve’s motor overheated and has blown it’s header tank. Limped to an isolated camp dune and now need to return to the garage tomorrow early to get replacement parts rather than towards the beach to watch the birds. Our guide remains with us to eat and sleep but there are still some tensions in the group. A good night’s sleep may help.

Day 13: Arrve at Mauritanian Border

Too comfy so didn’t get away until after 9am! Bought bread on the way out of town and team got separated!!! Reunited and on our way. Drove a mighty long way with little of interest except coast, beaches and acres of desert! Paused for fuel twice and to play in the sand with more camels. Pete found some lovely fossils and sand blasted coloured pebbles. Thought that we might stop part way along the coast before the Mauritanian border but came upon it and ended up camping at the frontier. A little intimidated by the land mine fields so decided not to leave the road AT ALL, nasty little skull and crossbones signs!!!
Collected fisches on arrival so hope to be first through the border tomorrow after donating a few clothing bribes to my friendly border policeman and his two sons!!
We’ll see!

Day 10: Western Sahara


What a frustrating day! Started efficiently at the sand dunes and packed up after a good breakfast of sausage, bacon and beans. Drove on, after Mike had a go at off road sand dune driving. Paused in Lalayounne and what was meant to be a 35 min pause, allowing shopping and visit to the internet turned into a 2 hour time loss as we all got lost on our way out!
Drove on, passed a fair number of police control points, usually very friendly, one even recognised my swiss accent!! Not the most interesting drive except we all saw wild camels and a gateway through swordfish and ostriches. Stopped at nearly 4pm at a nice camping in Boujdour.Charlie went fishing, some had rooms and others camped outside. Lovely meal with mango chutney followed by a bit of chaotic printing and a social chit chat before bed.

Tuesday, 27 January 2009

Tuesday 28 Jan 11:15 Ghana Border

Via text from Carol: all OK but stuck at Ghana border due to problems with paperwork on Glen's car. Hope to get going asap, and be with Sabre Trust before long.

Notes from Caroline (many thanks, great story, explains so much about border-cultures)
I HATE BORDER CROSSINGS!!
Border Crossings and Border Officials are very Forest Gump....'life is like a box of chocolates...you never know what you're gonna get!!' Some go relatively smoothly ( afew soft toys and some giveaway pens!) and others are a continual string of pay the border officials, pay the police and pay the customs..anyone give away a blackberry lately?
Not sure what technique will be used at this one. After difficulties at Rosso in Mauritania, where we were overcharged for insurance we crossed by a small ferry to the Senegal side where it was necessary for us to blockade the port, so no-one could get either in or out, to be able to remedy wrong doings. I felt very naughty having never burnt a bra or chained myself to a railing in protest in either this life or before! Unfortunately it didn't have the desired effect as it turned out that we were on the last crossing and vehicles that remained still for more than 2 minutes were subjected to a carwash by local boys trying to earn a 'cadeau!' after making a small offering to our little grubby friend with his bucket of river water, we then had to endure an additional 3 car washes from other equally keen youngsters! Some hours later and an escorted visit to an out of town cash machine, we were once again underway. Ham or cheese sandwich was about all that we managed out of the kitchen that night!

Monday, 26 January 2009

Sunday, 25 January 2009

Sunday 25 Jan: News from Caroline Smith (expedition cook)

Caroline kindly left us a blog-comment on her safe return - many thanks, glad all is well for you.

Hey there, we made it home ok! Afriqyah Airways wasn't quite how I had imagined..not a goat or chicken in sight although still unsure what the meat stew was made of for the inflight meal! but plenty of mummas and traditionally dressed elders!
Seems so strange to be here in the miserable wet weather. It was great that the rest of the team made it for a farewell dinner, I hope that the Sightsavers handover went ok and the border control as you left Mali wasn't too tricky.
For anyone back home tracking progress Carol has had great difficulty, getting updates thru. The internet is very slow in the areas that we have been passing thru. We have enjoyed camping in the dunes of the sahara, breakfast alongside crocodiles and the satisfaction of teaching new things to children. Having covered 5000 miles by the time we left in Bamako you can imagine a lot of our time was spent on the move. Roads are of a very poor condition and the African equivalent of the M1 is tarmac wide enough for 2 lanes, full of potholes(craters) and rifts of melted tarmac. It was often easier to switch to the donkey track alongside which seemed smoother even though sandy often could travel a comfortable 35mph.
As we departed 2 vehicles were scheduled for handover to Sightsavers in Bamako and the remaining 2 defenders were heading to Ghana via Burkino Faso. 2 further Border crossings and plenty of police checkpoints along the way are expected, I hope and pray that they go well as we haven't always had the easiest times. CAROL IS A STAR!! WE ALL LOVE HER! and you too Kev of course!!
Missing you all loads Caroline(your deserted cook!)
Incidentally my reflexology session today was simply divine!!!
Love you lots! Caroline

Friday, 23 January 2009

GPS Friday 23 Jan 07:10 - Mali, 80 miles north of Bamako

Bamako (name means "crocodile river") is the capital of Mali and the fastest growing city in Africa (6th fastest in the world). Daytime temperature in January is normally about 30 C, but no rain.
We expect them to deliver 2 vehicles to Sightsavers near Bamako.

Wednesday, 21 January 2009

GPS Wed 21 Jan 12:56 Gambia: left Banjul

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=13.7594,-15.1846&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
News via text from Carol:- Left Banjul, slept in a field, now en route east to Mali border and Bamako. Paused to sort out kits and bits on cars. Apologies for little news as have no internet access, just GPS satellite.
(Big Sis: we believe they have delivered cars to SightSavers and Opera Africa in Gambia near Banjul)

Friday, 16 January 2009

GPS position Fri 16 Jan 12noon : Mauritania

another 40 miles approx to Senegal border.

Great to hear from them, hope they'll have mobile phone/internet access once back in civilization.
If you get news, please put a post in the Comments.

Tuesday, 13 January 2009

GPS position Tuesday 13 Jan 19:40 at border of Mauritania

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=21.3639,-16.961&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Western Sahara by border with Mauritania, near Guerguarat.
hint: zoom in close on satellite & photo views to see lorries at the border.

Total Trip so far (adds all GPS positions as they send them)

Monday, 12 January 2009

GPS position Monday 12 Jan 19:07

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=26.1325,-14.4949&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Western Sahara: Boujdour south of Laayoune (or El Aaiun). Now a long dull sandy road to Dakhla: 452 km

hint: on Google Maps look at the Satellite view instead of Maps,
and see also the Google photos (click on More and photos) including superb sunset at Laayoune.

Message: Carol was teased by police check for her Swiss-French.

Through the gateway to the Western Sahara and slept in the sand dunes.
A great day

Sunday, 11 January 2009

GPS track report Sunday 11th Jan 18:15

Morocco, close to border with Western Sahara (which is occupied by Morocco)
Total Trip so far (adds all GPS positions as they send them)

Casablanca on the beach



Hassan II Mosque on the beach in Casablanca.
Completed in 1993 it is one of the largest and most beautiful mosques in the world. Its gleaming newness and tremendous wealth is a stark contrast against the rest of Casablanca.
After our great evening in the souks we crashed at Mohammed’s again and made ready for an efficient departure the next morning. Up at 6am, breakfast of traditional waffley type crepes and delicious fig jam. Away by 8am as planned!
Mohammed escorted us out of the city and onto the right road for Agadir and Tan Tan our aspired destination. Driving down through the low Atlas mountains was exciting and beautiful. Sadly we didn’t have time to take our trip off road into the higher altitude areas and with the snow conditions and the laden vehicles we decided to be cautious.

Decided to stop at around 4pm whatever so didn’t quite get to Tan Tan but drove away from the road about 100km short and set up our cowboy circle! Superb meal cooked efficiently as ever by Caroline whilst vehicle checks completed, what a team!

GPS Tracker Sat 10 Jan 18:30

Morocco, well south of Agadir (in line with Lanzarote)

Exciting ! Rough camping overnight north of Tan Tan. All ok.

Big Sis says: Whilst the team are having difficulties getting Internet access to post blogs, we will load their GPS tracker reports so followers can see their progress on Google Maps (reports are supplied via satellite on a system called FindMeSpot, thanks to supporter Lifesigns). Good Luck team !

Friday, 9 January 2009

Spain & Morocco

a long day and stopped to cook and eat at a garage on the roadside; eventually stopped in a tiny hotel on the eve of their christmas day so parties all around. All were grateful to stop at around midnight for a quick drink and then bed. Carol struggles more to communicate in spanish than french.
VERY cold in the morning and Carol had to drive in fog and ice.

Through the remainder of the centre of spanish mountains to the very south. Caroline is a superb cook but also uses her sat nav with great skill. Camped overnight in a campsite in Marbella with a lovely evening meal out to celebrate Peter getting older and our last meal in europe.

Awoke wednesday morning (7th Jan) and headed for the Algeciras port with a new team member, John to join Steve in the green tail end charlie reliable car. Swiftly purchased tickets and rode the car ferry to Ceuta. Without working sat nav on the far side we took our time to find the right roads but finally used a bit of off road when Kev decided to use the verge late that night. We tried to stop in many hotels but ended up on the roadside for a few hours in Rabat before completing our route to Mohammed in Marrakesh.

Glen, our team leader decided that we had to look at Casablanca on the way which proved to be exciting for all in raging busy traffic but we were elated to regroup the convoy by a huge mosque on the beach. I will upload photos next stop as I want my dinner and to go and experience the souks and snake charmers in the central square in Marrakesh.

We have serviced and fixed cars and did a bit of washing today ready for an early start to head on through Morrocco and then to Mauritania.

France: Sun 4th & Mon 5th Jan

A couple of successful days!
Spent time with a family in central france while the mechanics replaced an engine that blew a cylinder head gasket and fixed a few less major pieces on other vehicles while we were there, including the ‘temporary’ mend on our rear brakes made at the roadside. This took a little longer than expected and we had to call in more favours by buying diesel from his local friend (also an expat brit) as we discovered a few vehicles gasping on a Sunday night when all local garages were truly shut. Convoy rolled to Bordeaux where we finally rendezvoused with our last vehicle who had a delayed start due to a family funeral but still beat us to southern france! They had arranged rooms and take away pizzas all round so very popular with the team. A good night’s sleep was had by all!

Monday morning and the A team mechanics replaced the alternator of the final team member due to a noisy bearing. Ready to roll by 9am and hit the local Carrefour hypermarket. Fully stocked, we then set off to get a few miles under our belts heading through southern France to Spain, direction Madrid.

Sunday, 4 January 2009

Progress! From Birmingham to France







Sat 3rd Jan: Early morning in FRANCE!!



Not quite the progress that we had hoped. Friday was spent driving the vehicles on the trip to Tryefort in Birmingham for the launch. Six vehicles arrived successfully and after the press photos we set off.


We led the convoy to Portsmouth with no problems and ate fish and chips on the dock with my family before boarding. Many tears were shed but all well!


Slept on the boat, once some of the team found the top bunk in the ceiling! Awoke for breakfast and then back to the cars to set off. Time seemed to fly. Convoy arranged to meet vehicle 7 on the motorway south of Rennes which we achieved by 9am. A long stop to try to sort a problem with the rear brakes on our landy which was temporarily sorted until a specific tool could be found. Sadly as we prepared to move off another landy overheated and the start of the problems began. Hobbled down the motorway in short bursts until had to give up north of La Rochelle - cylinder head gasket gone, a major job for our mechanics. Ended up getting the damaged landy relayed on a recovery truck to a village west of Limoges to a friend of glen (the big boss!) who has all the tools and enough space for all 13 team members to sleep!


Sunday 4th Jan: After a late supper and a welcome sleep we are up to fix cars, sort admin as quickly as possible in about 6 degrees of frost! Why could this not have happened further south in the warm! However spirits are high and the team working well together.

Thursday, 1 January 2009

Last minute jobs

Happy New year one and all!!
After the celebrations that go with the end of the year, we have spent the day sorting last minute details. Slight leak on the rear brakes to sort and packing individual kit. My youngest has baked us cookies to take so we'll be well fed!
Scanning documents and getting ready to go makes the reality of the off quite intense despite the heavy cold that I have found from somewhere.... hopefully the heat of Morocco will scare it away in the next few days.
Have discovered major communication difficulties in northern africa, no broadband dongals are effective so I apologise if there are days when I will be unable to update. I will be actively hunting internet cafes.
Leave Farnham early tomorrow morning to drive to the launch from the Goodyear factory outside Birmingham and then back south as a convoy to the ferry at Portsmouth. Sorry, the detail on the route section of the drive website (see link on my profile for details of charities etc) is not fully up to date in places.
Thinking of you all